Setting of water supply system
1. Water meter settings In recent years, in order to protect the privacy rights of residents and facilitate property management, outdoor water meters are generally arranged in residential water supply and drainage design to avoid meter reading in households.
2. Pipe settings
(1) The shortest route shall be selected for the pipeline from indoor kitchen to toilet or from toilet to kitchen as far as possible. If the water supply pipe is laid on the floor; On the plane, the shortest distance between the toilet and the kitchen can be taken to lay the pipeline. If galvanized pipe is laid, it is better to lay the pipe length less than one whole pipe, that is, the length of the laid pipe is less than 12m.
The purpose of this is to reduce pipe joints and reduce the chance of pipe leakage.
(2) The water supply pipe should preferably be UPVC pipe, copper pipe, polyethylene pipe, polybutylene pipe, aluminum-plastic composite pipe, steel-plastic composite pipe and other pipes. Stop using galvanized steel pipes to avoid and prevent domestic water pollution.
When the water supply pipe is buried and the pipe diameter is equal to or greater than 75mm, it is recommended to use water supply nodular cast iron pipe (with lining) or water supply UPVC pipe instead of ordinary water supply cast iron pipe. For galvanized steel pipes buried or laid in the cushion (although the galvanized layer plays a protective role for the pipeline, it is not an anti-corrosion layer), anti-corrosion measures shall still be taken. Some designers and construction units do not pay attention to this and should pay attention to it.
(3) In order to reduce the water supply noise in the building, a flexible rubber joint and other vibration isolation and noise reduction devices and accessories should be installed on the inlet water supply branch pipe of each household.
Setting of drainage system
1. Setting of drainage pipe
(1) In the design, the floor of the toilet is often lowered by 40cm-50cm (i.e. sunken toilet), and the horizontal drainage pipe is laid in this part of the space. In this way, the drainage pipe is set indoors to facilitate the change and maintenance of the pipe, which is especially suitable for the application in the newly decorated residence.
(2) Almost all bathrooms in modern houses have suspended ceilings. At this time, the horizontal drainage pipe can be laid in the upper space of the lower toilet according to the practice of the drainage branch pipe of the old toilet, and the p-type trap or S-type trap with inspection port can be installed. We think this method is not as good as the previous method. The maintenance of horizontal drainage pipes will affect the lower level residents.
(3) Some residences (especially duplex residences) do not correspond to the upstairs and downstairs toilets and kitchens. The upper part of some halls or rooms is the toilet or kitchen, and the lower part of the toilet or kitchen is the balcony or terrace.
In this case, it is generally not allowed to lay the wandering horizontal pipe on the upper part of the lower space, nor reduce the floor of the toilet. The setting of the horizontal drainage pipe needs special treatment.
Our common practice is to lay horizontal drainage pipes on the toilet floor, and install rear outlet (horizontal outlet) toilet and side wall floor drain. The advantage of this method is that the horizontal drainage pipe is only laid in the toilet, which does not affect the normal function of the corresponding space in the lower layer. Its disadvantage is that the side wall floor drain is easy to cause poor drainage and sewage overflow.
Another method is to lay a horizontal drainage pipe on the toilet ground, install a rear water outlet (horizontal water outlet) toilet, and set a floor drain on the toilet ground. This method overcomes the shortcomings of the previous method, but to deal with the connection between the floor drain and the drainage riser, the section size of the pipe well of the floor drain drainage branch pipe and the drainage riser should be reduced as much as possible. Another method is to raise the toilet floor, set an interlayer between the raised floor and the original ground, and lay pipes in the interlayer. This method was commonly used in the past. Its disadvantage is that the floor height of the toilet is reduced, and it is inconvenient to go up and down the stairs to get in and out of the toilet. We do not advocate this approach. The above practices are also applicable to the laying of horizontal drainage pipes in kitchens.
2. Setting of drainage riser
(1) The drainage riser shall be set at the internal corner of the toilet or kitchen as far as possible. It is best to build pipes and hide drainage risers. In the south, the drainage riser can be laid on the outer wall of the building (but the node at the outlet of the pipe from the wall should be handled well).
(2) Some drainage risers are laid in a corner of the hall or room under compulsion. In this case, the drainage riser should be concealed in the U-shaped groove or rectangular space specially set for the hall and room, so that the hall and room can be kept square. After these drainage risers are laid, pipe wells need to be built. The purpose of laying pipe well is to separate the pipe from the hall and room and ensure that the laying of drainage riser can meet the specification requirements; Another purpose is to reduce the noise of pipelines and minimize the impact of noise on halls and rooms; Another purpose is to facilitate the decoration of halls and rooms.
(3) The inspection port on the drainage riser of compound residence is different from that of ordinary residence. Our practice is to set up inspection openings at the lowest level of the drainage riser, the lowest level of the drainage riser with horizontal drainage pipe in each household (which may be the first floor or the second floor of the duplex residence), and the highest level of the residence. The advantage of this is that it can give full play to the role of the inspection port. There is no inspection port on the drainage riser in the hall and room, and there is no access door on the pipe well here, which is convenient for the decoration of the hall and room.
Setting of sanitary ware
- 1. Modern houses are generally equipped with two or more bathrooms, one of which is dedicated to the master room. According to the different living habits of residents in different areas, the setting of sanitary appliances in the toilet is also different. Bathtub, washbasin and toilet are mostly set in the toilet of the master room in this area, and some are set with shower room or shower room according to the requirements of the construction party. The toilet of some modern residential master rooms is also equipped with women’s body washing basin. Other bathrooms are generally equipped with bathtub (some only set up shower room without bathtub), washbasin and toilet. Generally, there are washing machine seats in these bathrooms.
- 2. Residential kitchens are generally equipped with stainless steel washing basins or other high-grade vegetable washing basins. In order to facilitate water use, it is best to configure double vegetable washing basins and install two faucets in the kitchen. In most kitchens, the angle valve is generally installed at the water point, and then the hose is used to connect the angle Yin and the special high-grade faucet in the kitchen. Kitchen drainage floor drain is basically cancelled in this area. 3. Some houses have laundry. If the plane position allows, it is best to install a wash basin in these laundry rooms for washing hands. Laying pipeline
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